This is the time of year when the warm light of the persistent and strong summer have retreated and Provence is immersed in a warm golden light that is like a lingering caress of the most difficult days of winter. The warm autumn is the perfect time for this little piece of heaven on earth to explore, which is also the oldest wine region of France.
The vineyards are part of the landscape of sunny Provence by Greek sailors first landed on the shores of the 6th century BC.The rows on rows of vines that stretch their dark, gnarled branches of the Sun are as much a part of the decoration of the region and its history as the tortured shapes of trees they seem.
Now the main stream of visitors departed, which allows you to walk in peace, stop when and where the spirit moves, for a meal or a night, let me take you on a journey of five of the quality of the wine-growing areas of the region.
In each, we will give you asimple recipe for happiness on earth, take a couple of excellent vineyards, add a large selection of charming hotels and restaurants - some of which are located under one roof - and enjoy the combination in an environment that is a masterpiece of Nature.
The first vines were actually planted on the coast by the Greeks when they founded Marseille, but it was the Romans who had the merit of spreading vines in Provence. Now carpet the region, itsCosta Mediterranea inland valleys are green and wooded hills, mountains carved.
In Roman times, all the pink wine was produced, which is still the color of wine is usually associated with the Provence. But in addition to bright, fruity rosé, perfect for drinking in the summer, the region also produces a wide range of warm white, red, and sometimes surprisingly sharp. The grapes traditionally used for its red wines are local varietiesMourvèdre (known as the strangler of dogs!) Tibouren and Cinsault, mixed with international names such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Grenache. Whites are a marriage of Provence veterans like Clairette, Ugni Blanc and Marsanne, and new compared to the region, such as Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.
Since 1935, when a strict French wine rules developed, the high quality wines from a particular area for AOC - Appellation d'OrigineControlled. It is a well-defined certification of origin to ensure that the DOC has a long list of requirements, including grape varieties, maximum yield, minimum alcohol levels and winemaking techniques.
The wine regions of Provence that follow all have earned the designation classification: a too long ago, in 1936, one as recently as 1995. With this type of guaranteed quality, you find the wine slide down so easily that wethought it was better to have a choice of nearby hotels / restaurant where you can stand the taste and strength for the next round of your travel experience.
Describe all the vineyards are happy to come and taste their wines, and the vast majority of English-speaking staff. The opening hours we have the list at the end of this article were correct at time of going to press, but it never hurts to give them a call before you go, just to verify that no changes have been.
Finally,Before you begin, let us be clear that we have only a few sips of wine that is big and varied Provence. There are only some examples for you to uncork bottles on a handful of notable vineyards. The region has many other cash discover and add to your personal address book. A votre santé!
Cassis: The oldest AOC in Provence (1936)
Let's start from the beginning to the Mediterranean coast. Not far fromwhere Greek sailors founded 26 centuries ago, Marseilles, the port of Cassis in pastel colors is at the foot of Cap Canaille, France, the highest sea cliffs. From its picturesque harbor you can navigate through the creeks of Calanques take crystal-clear blue water carved into white limestone coast, or take the more energetic can enjoy their depth transparent top, walking along the well marked, dramatic GR98 - 51 path adjacent to the coast.
Once theGiven these deep sparkling worked silks, indoor dining on hand, in the form of fine wines of Cassis, a unique phenomenon in Provence. Unlike any other wine regions, which are mainly red and rosé wines, a good 75% of the wines of Cassis are fresh, clean whites that are the perfect companion to the table famous dish made with local fish, the production bouillabaisse.
On the hill above stands the Castle of Cassis Fontcreuse, once a stately homebelonging to Colonel Teed, a British army officer who fell in love with the area and launched into winemaking in 1922. Today the company is conducted in exemplary lines by Jean-François Brando, the head of the union of wine Cassis'.
In the village of Cassis in itself, and happily free bus tours because they can not park nearby, the elegant Clos Sainte-Magdeleine, who spent most of his grapes, all organically grown, cultivated in terraces on the slopes of Cape Canaillearound the imposing Art Deco building. Her floral white wines, with a clear scent of the sea for their only screaming for some fresh fish to accompany them.
You will find a wide choice of restaurants on the shore. One of the best Nino +33 (0) 4 42 01 74 32 (Menu: 32EUR) .. Their bouillabaisse is the genuine article and the service is relaxed and friendly. Just a little 'far from Cassis, in an idyllic setting at the end of the diminutive Presqu'ile (spit) ofPort Miou, The Presqu'île (+33 (0) 4 42 01 03 77 29 Menu - 46EUR) is worth trying to figure out for its combination of excellent food with sea views beautifully romantic. Or work up an appetite or work off the meal, there are five tennis courts at the sea that can be rented for now.
If you like the sun setting over the sea to look, you have until November 1st to book Les Roches Blanches (33 (0) April 1942 1 September 1930, 90 rooms - 260EUR) a 24-room four-star hotel in a beautiful setting, whichcloses for the winter. The nearby 27-room Hôtel de la Rade (+33 (0) 4 42 01 02 97, Hall 90 - 140EUR) remains open all year and give the impression of going on a cruise without ever leaving the ground. Balancing the sea, the canvas covered terrace with teak handrails, the nautical theme that takes place inside a decorative shell and brass portholes.
Bandol: The most famous of Provence AOC (1941)
A short, scenic route east of Cassis, Bandol region spreadsaround the resort of Bandol, with terraced vineyards climb from the sea to the Sainte Baume mountain range.
"Quality, not quantity," is the motto of winegrowers in the area, and stick to a grueling series of rules to live I believe. Fresh roses accounted for 55% of the wines of Bandol, but the grim, long live the distinctive red made from Mourvèdre grapes and aged in oak barrels for at least 18 months, which have the reputation of the region.
SundayDecember 4 will hold its annual Festival du Bandol Millesime, a great opportunity for the new wine of the harvest tests this year. There is always a problem - "Games" this year - and the wineries have a lot of fun to get dressed. Join the crowd, which is great, but luckily, stroll along the waterfront from tent to tent, sampling and spitting, both in cuspidors provided, or directly into the sea. By the end of the day, the fish in the port have a hard timeswim a straight line!
Like most resorts, Bandol is a string of restaurants along the coast. One of the best is the busy Auberge du Port (+33 (0) 4 94 29 42 63; Menu: 32 - 42EUR). If you go to the Wine Fair, be sure to book highly! The more casual wine bar at Auberge, the oldest Bandol, serves a menu of all reasonable 18EUR meat and fish, with wines by the glass.
Some of the biggest red Bandol, with a life expectancy of 20 yearsor more in good years, from Château Pradeaux, Portalis in family since 1752. Just outside the resort of Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer, with a sea breeze forever protect the vines against disease, the castle was designed in the style of a Roman villa. E 'covered with climbing roses, and an assortment of friendly dogs doze in different angles.
Right to Saint-Cyr, the four-star, 133 room Dolce Fregate (+33 (0) 4 94 29 39 39 Rooms: 147 -560EUR), a hotel with all the comfort and convenience, as one of the top ranked golf courses in France. Facilities include an indoor heated pool, 3 tennis courts and a spa.
Just 15 minutes away, at the foot of the medieval village of La Riviera Cadière, Alain Pascal, the new star of the Bandol wine, called its domain, Gros'Nore, in memory of his father, a man named Honoré obese, or "Nore, in short. Alain, a former boxer,is a man who does not mince his words or compromise - especially for the quality of its wines. Since 1997 produces excellent red and Mourvèdre dominated a beautiful rose.
At the top of the village, the Hostellerie Bérard (+33 (0) 4 94 90 11 43; Rooms: 80 - 259EUR; Menus from 44EUR) is an inviting stop for a meal or overnight. Is a cozy guesthouse with 40 rooms, located in a monastery, C, 11 ° and a fine regional restaurant, has a magnificent view of thedining room light. Chef Rene Berard Cook shares his palpable love and knowledge of Provencal cuisine cooking classes in four days is held each month, except January and August.
Côtes de Provence: the greatest of Provence AOC (1977)
With a vast 45,000 hectares of vineyards spread from Aix-en-Provence to Nice, this designation offers wines of every color and style. Roses 75% of production, 20% red and white for only 5%.
L 'quickest way to get an overview of the immense amount of vineyards have been visiting the area Maison des Vins - Enoteca - the medieval town of Les Arcs, the river Argens. You are close to some spectacular scenery, such as: Pennafort gorges where the water is deep red cliffs crowned with pines waterfalls. Enoteca enjoy a free choice of Cotes de Provence, which changes every week, now, at producer prices, one of 600 wines are stored instock.
In the idyllic countryside, just outside of Les Arcs, Château Sainte Roseline, a state-of-the-art vineyard located in a 12th century abbey. E 'visit, both for the continuity of good red, white and pink, and the Romanesque chapel, a large mosaic by Chagall, and a reliquary of crystal, the well-preserved body of 14-Sainte Roseline same.
Les Arcs is also a newly built beautiful Château Font du Broc, whichcombines two noble pursuits: making wine and horses. The castle, with its vaulted Gothic cellar, took four years of work and would definitely worth a visit even if you do not want to taste wines. It would be wrong for them to pass up, though. All about this great heritage, where peacocks roam importantly, is lush and well done, and the lush, award-winning red and pink are no exception.
For dinner and the night,visiting another miracle in the area: Chez Bruno (+33 (0) 4 94 85 93 93 56-110 euro menu; Rooms: 84 - 130 Euro), the truffle, the king of Lorgues. A brilliant, generous, giant, Bruno will welcome you in person, with the warmth of an old friend. In addition, he beams like Jesus, a humorous mural of the Last Supper painted on the walls of his restaurant! Take no offense, but you take the half portion! The truffle menus are a gastronomic experience not to be missed, and four rooms await those who want tothem to digest in peace.
Through the cliffs of deep red gorges of Pennafort, illuminated at night, an idyllic Michelin-starred Hostellerie Les Gorges Pennafort +33 (0) 4 94 76 66 51; Menu: 49 - 110EUR; Rooms: 185 - 220EUR) is a destination no self-respecting gourmet to go. Its owner and head chef exuberant, Philippe Da Silva, a kitchen divine delicacies such as foie gras ravioli with Parmesan cheese, and always adds something extra to moan with pleasure at the end ofmeal. His wife Martine controls the elegant hotel with 16 rooms, to ensure that everything is the same standard as the cooking of her husband.
Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, the most elegant of Provence AOC (1985)
It extends from the Durance River south to the western Mediterranean and Mont Sainte-Victoire in the valley of the Rhone, the designation covers approximately 4,000 hectares, where 75 Vignerons production increased by 50%, 45% red and 5% white. Roses arefruity and easy to like, and the top red Bordeaux seems not only because of the Cabernet Sauvignon used in them, but also for their ability to age well.
The piece region is the beautiful city of Aix-en-Provence, that anyone visiting its fountains, palaces, honey-colored, lively cafes and trendy shops charms. The great painter Paul Cezanne was born and died in 1906. On the occasion of the centenary of his death next year, with Aixthe National Art Gallery in Washington, is organizing a fantastic, not to be missed exhibition of 110 of his works in the city recently renovated Granet Museum of Art
If you want to enjoy the charm of Aix, at Hotel Le Pigonnet (+33 (0) 4 42 59 02 90; Rooms: 200 - 380EUR) the basis for the Exploration of the vineyard. The pride of land in the southern outskirts of the city, is privately owned, immaculately maintained and has a restaurant that is an attraction in itself.
FromAix, it is a short drive north along the N7 to one of the most gracious estates in the name of wine. Château de Beaupré, a relay of coaches, has been planted with vines in the late 19th century by Baron Emile Double. We welcome you to the magnificent castle with a courtyard and fountains, is probably the current Baron Double per person. Pour generous taste for extending the range of wines from the estate of all colors. Very good andgood value, the red and white Château de Beaupré.
Beaupre as beautiful castles, vineyards members are abundant in the Aix countryside. A recent addition to this collection of architectural gems, just 7 km north of Aix, is the beautiful Domaine de la Spectacle Lane. Built from the ground up over the past five years, the handsome ocher-colored palace overlooking 18 acres of vines that preceded it, but it must be nursed back to health domainCreator charming and energetic, Rupert Birch. Mertens with Mary, his partner in all the adventures of life, organic produce three red, which soon began to earn rave reviews from the wine trade. Five tastefully decorated guest rooms with superb views from every window, giving you the chance to see the daily life of first-hand experience vineyard.
One of the restaurant addresses Rupert and Mary will share with you the Relais Sainte Victoire(+33 (0) 4 42 66 94 98; Menu: 25 - 65EUR) at the foot of the mountain magic of Aix, where Cézanne painted so often. His jovial owner Rene Berges made headlines this spring when he decided to return to its Michelin star, because he was tired of the constant pressure to meet the high expectations, the restaurant guide. Since its announcement, has lowered its prices, but not rules, more people come to enjoy its dishes.
In an environment that none of the natural beauty of the relay, as well as a 5 km south of Aix large shopping mall, the 30-room Chateau de la Pioline (+33 (0) 4 42 52 27 27; Rooms: 185 - 290EUR: Menu: 45 - 60euro) shows that beauty can survive in the most unlikely places. Blessed are protected by a wooded park of sounds and frantic exchanges outside the C 16 th century, a beautifully restored castle, is secretly> Jewel. Young, talented chef chef Olivier Brissy serves classic dishes of classic beauty salon d'Oro.
Les Baux de Provence: The most amazing AOC in Provence (1995)
drive east of Aix-en-Provence, the Alpilles mountain range carved up the profile in the sky an hour easy. Surrounded by olive groves, almond orchards and vineyards, has been awarded by the dramatic ruins of the medieval citadel of Les Baux, where powerful warlords in the area, known andfeared as a "race of eagles respondents' their domain.
The vineyards, spread below, were once part of the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, but they earned their own nickname for the red and rosé wines, which represent 90% of production in 1995. By nature, they are wines with a distinct earthy character that distinguishes them. Organic and biodynamic production methods are gaining ground in local winemakers who believe in working with the rhythms of nature to make the mostadulterated wines possible.
Biodynamic methods, which all use of synthetic chemicals to prevent and treat the vineyard as a living being to be respected, always applied since 1989 Château Romanin, a few miles east of St. Remy. The wine cellar, a magnificent underground cathedral carved into the hillside, is a magical place, built on principles of land, namely the planetary axis intersection. If you believe in fields such power or not, the red complexrefreshing rosé under the soaring arches regularly win prizes.
A short trip, interrupted by a succession of breathtaking views, take to the Cabro d'Or (+33 (0) 4 90 54 33 21; Menu: 45 - 85EUR, Rooms: 180 to 450 euro) an idyllic 31 - inn room surrounded by beautiful gardens at the foot of Les Baux. The kitchen has a Michelin star, but you can eat for 45EUR, because the young chef-chef, Michel Hulin, is more interested in customer satisfaction by a wide margin. TheCabro closes from November to mid-December, reopening in time to treat yourself with a special meal during the Christmas season.
Within a couple of kilometers, in the hamlet of le Paradou, the 15-room Domaine Le Hameau des Baux (+33 (0)49 54 10 30; Rooms: 170 -- 210EUR) is one of those special addresses to share with close friends. A collection of character-filled old buildings -- a barn, a cabanon, a chapel, a dovecote and a mill - have been restored with impeccable taste, keeping the relaxing feeling of a private home, with the right touch of daring contemporary.
The second winery around Les Baux, you should visit is a real jewel in the crown out Fontvieille, near the mill, which inspired the French writer Alphonse Daudet to write his "Lettres de mon moulin". Château d'Estoublon, originally built in the 15th century by Benedictine monks, was burned during the wars of religion in the 18th century and rebuilt in January 1999 was acquired by Schneiderfamily, owners of Breitling watches. They spared no expense or energy to buildings to renovate and replant and restore the vineyards and olive trees. The company has converted to organic viticulture and Dürrbach called Eloi, one of the best wine producers of France, for expert assistance in the production of wines that are full of character, tasting of the soil in which they grow offers. Visiting Estoublon gives you the opportunity to taste wines from both the field and excellent olive oil.
From there,Choose one of the many beautiful trails to back up past Baux, the chic town of Saint Remy de Provence, with its tempting boutiques and markets. Many international movie stars prefer the more discreet charm of the resort on the Mediterranean coast. Pampered like a star, stop in the luxury Hostellerie du Vallon de Valrugues Tel: +33 (0) 4 90 92 04 40 Rooms: 150 - 260EUR). The number of hedonic services include a fine restaurant (menu: 53 to € 88) aspa, a private putting green, a billiards room, tennis courts and, of course, glamorous pool.
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